Welcome to Curly Life’s comprehensive guide on growing and maintaining strong, healthy curls! We’ve created this in depth guide to give help to anyone who is struggling to handle their curls.
Many curls have decided to embrace their natural curls and give up straighteners, curlers, chemical treatments and anything harming their curls. After getting used to wearing your hair a certain way, it can be very difficult to get back into wearing it natural. Many girls stop wearing their hair natural in their teens, so it can be difficult to get back into the swing of things.
But you no longer need to worry! We’ve got you covered with our detailed guide on how to grow and maintain healthy curls. If you’re looking for styling tips, this article isn’t for you. This article focuses on hair care and healthy habits. If you want to learn more about how to style your curls, check out our collection of articles on styling tips.
Before we start…
Remember why you are going on this journey…the goal isn’t “perfection” or your favourite IG model’s hair…the goal is to love and respect your own hair.
Treasure your hair, treat it will and results will follow. Don’t forget: longer hair starts with healthy hair.
1. Understand how your hair responds to product thickness
Although the curly hair chart type is commonly used, it’s also important to understand how your hair responds to certain products. Does your hair like thick, buttery formulas? Or does your hair feel greasy, weighed down and possibly even itchy when you use these types of products?
How about thin, lightweight formulas? Do your curls look their best with these types of formulas? Or they give your minimal results?
Product thickness is overlooked a lot. An ultra hydrating, thick hair butter might be amazing for dense, coily hair types – but it could be devastating for fine, loose waves. A lightweight gel might give fine, loose waves amazing definition and volume, but could do not much for dense, coils.
Different products were made for different hair types. It will take some time to work out what types of products your hair will love and hate.
2. The key to health & definition: moisturised curls
Moisture is talked about a lot in the curly hair community – and for good reason! It not only leaves us with juicy definition, but also allows us to grow our curls longer thanks to its role in retaining length.
Moisture gives curls elasticity and helps them to bend without breaking (this is why it’s easier to do fun hairstyles when your hair is freshly washed as opposed post wash day). Moisture is also what keeps our skin soft. Applying moisturiser is a key in almost all skincare routines, so it also needs to be a key in hair care routines as well!
When hair lacks moisture (dry, frizzy, brittle) it is much more prone to breakage. Sebum is our natural scalp oil that develops over a few days. Straight haired girls experience softer locks because their sebum is able to easily travel down their strands. Whereas, for curly girls, it takes much longer for our sebum generally won’t travel down our rollercoaster-shaped strands as well. Instead, our sebum will travel until it reaches a curve. This is why ends tend to be the driest and most prone to breakage.
If your ends are breaking, this destroys progress you’ve made in trying to grow your hair. If long hair is your goal, it is highly important to ensure your ends are moisturised so that breakage is minimal. Now, how exactly do you moisturise your hair?
3. Moisturise your curls properly
Absorption of water by a strand increases its flexibility. This minimises its potential for breakage. Dry hair can snap easily (even with gentle force). This is why it is highly important to keep hair properly moisturised from the inside out.
Water alone is insufficient because it evaporates out of your strands. Once water has evaporated from your hair, strands can go from plump, soft and silky to crunchy and brittle.
To keep your natural hair well hydrated, regularly combine water-based products (leave-in/daily moisturises, hair balms, refresh mists, hydrating milks) with oil or emollient-based products (styling gels/creams, defining butters, glossifying natural oils). This will help you to moisturise and also lock in moisture. This helps your hair protect its hydration levels during the week. The result? Your fragile ends are protected with maximum moisture.
Tip: if following this routine, make sure to keep the product away from your roots and rather focus it a few centimetres down from your roots. Product sitting on your roots can weigh down your hair.
A great tip to get the most out of your moisture routine is to be consistent with your routine by creating a regular regimen. Find out which products your hair loves.
Keep in mind to increase your moisture application during drier and windier weather, especially during the winter. You might need to change or alter your routine during these months.
3. Avoid hair “fast food”
If you ate a diet of solely fast food, your body can still function, but it will be severely held back from its full potential. The same goes for hair. If you feed your hair a poor diet of products, your curls will survive, but they won’t flourish.
Your curls will flourish on a healthy “diet.” Avoid overly processed products with harsh chemicals and fillers. Instead, use products that are enriched with cold pressed oils, nourishing butters and botanical ingredients. Switching your hair’s diet will give you surprising results! You’ll be amazed at how your curls change over time once you implement your new “diet.”
4. Don’t fall for marketing scams
Just because a product is marketed toward textured hair, this doesn’t mean it is suitable for textured hair. The mainstream world has generally become very aware of sulphates and silicones. Weariness of these two ingredients extends past the curly hair community, and many non-natural brands have caught on. Many brands have taken silicones and sulphates out of their formulas and replaced them with chemicals that are just as harsh or even worse.
Another big issue to watch out for is mineral oils. Mineral oils are cheap and highly processed. They coat the strand in a similar way that silicones do. They provide no nourishment. Instead, look for products with plant based oils, such as coconut oil, avocado oil, rosemary oil, etc.
Avoid overly lengthy ingredient lists. Look for products that use naturally derived preservatives, rather than an endless list of foreign ingredients. Fragrances and colours can also be naturally derived. Research the brand well and understand just how natural their formulas are.
5. Careful detangling
Detangling curls can be a nightmare. Due to breakage, some curlies ditch combs and opt for finger detangling instead. Even so, finger detangling still causes breakage (and extra pain!). Throwing out your combs isn’t necessarily the best option.
Be careful when detangling your curls. Never detangle dry hair. The best way to detangle is to do so in the shower and once your hair is soaking wet. Apply Flora & Curl Rose Water & Honey Leave-in Detangler generously to your curls, with a focus of extra product toward your tips. Next, start brushing. Start at your tips and gently work your way up. This method takes longer to detangle, but less breakage is definitely worth it!
6. Sunscreen for your hair & protection from sunshine
Protect your curls from sun damage by applying Flora & Curl African Citrus Bloom Superfruit Hair Oil. It has the rare baobab oil. Baobab oil protects the hair against harmful elements such as UV rays (sunshine), pollution and chemicals.
Apply this oil as part of your styling routine or throughout the week. I love to put it on at night before putting my silk sleep bonnet on. This allows my strands to soak it in well overnight.
7. Clarify every 4 weeks
Although it can seem dainty, this is a must for healthy curly hair. We use heavy products on our curls. Our curls love these ultra moisturising products, but at times, it needs a reset. Clarifying helps to completely erase buildup and give you a fresh canvas.
Clarifying involves using stronger shampoos and cleansing products to deeply cleanse your hair and strip away all buildup. They remove product, dead skin, dirt and flakiness. Think of it as detoxifying your hair. Before resetting your curls, you need to know when it’s right to do so. If you feel like you’re experiencing buildup, then it’ probably a good time to clarify.
For a powerful cleanse, I recommend using a clarifying clay wash because of absorbent properties found in the clay.
Check out this must read that breaks down everything you need to know: The Importance of Clarifying Curly Hair
8. Night curl routine
Every night, we do our skin care routine. It’s important to do so for curls, too! To preserve your curls at night, ensure to wear a sleep bonnet. In case it slips off, make sure to use a silk pillowcase. If extra moisture is a goal, then moisturise your curls at night using a balm or oil.
Other helpful tips:
- stay hydrated
- double wash your scalp
- eat a healthy diet
- don’t go too long without washing your curls (the longer you wait = more knots and detangling, which results in more breakage and fall out)
- don’t apply too much styling product in your hair at a time (too much product can leave you with greasy, flat and stretched curls)
- different products give different results. Want volume? Opt for a foam. Want definition? Opt for a gel.
- the key to definition is hydration
Final tip…
Love and patience go a long way! Keep health and nourishment at the centre of your goals and the results will follow.
Wishing you all the best on your hair care journey. I’d love to keep in touch with you – follow my Instagram @curlylifeau ♡♡♡
With love,
Sarah xx
